Thursday, April 14, 2016

Acrylic Nails – Sculpting Almond Shaped Nails

As a first step for building salon nails with almond shape, Alexa is preparing Dori's nails. With a Moyra Profile 180, Alexa shortens the nails, removes the shine and files them into shape. Once the cuticle is pushed back, the rest is removed with a drilling mashine. After brushing off the dust, we apply nail prep to dehydrate and sanitize the nails. Then we brush acid based primer on the whole surface of the nail. Make sure you do not have too much primer on the brush and you do not touch the skin. While the primer layer is drying we place paper nail form on the nails. We should stick the wings of the purple nail form together, so the nail form would not move during nail building. If the nail form seems to be too long, we can cut it to smaller.

We remove the center piece and reattach it to the self adhesive back side. It makes the nailform firmer and helps when placing it on the nails. We tear the perforation at the upper end. Then somewhere under the finger, we bend the form into cylinder shape, in order to make it match the nail'scurvature better. Once you bent the nail form, do not straighten it again. Then let's try the nail form to the nail. Very often it does not fit perfectly for the first time. It is normal. So what can we do? If the paper is not right under the nail corners then we should cut the form deeper with scissors. We should cut a curve that follows the curve of the free edge of the natural nail. 

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After cutting we fit the nail form under the free edge. It's important that the middle line of the nail form should follow the middle line of the nail. Now we press the lower wings together and firmly stick them to the fingers. Make sure you fit the wings perfectly together, because if the form is slanted, the nail will be slanted too! If you wish to make narrower nails, then you need to cut the nail form at the corners. We cut the paper perpendicular to the original cut, this way we can bend the form into narrower, which results in narrower built nails. We build the nails this long on the form. Make sure the nailform does not go up or descend, it should be a straight continuation of the natural nailplate. The form should be bent so it would curve within the corner points. And there should be no gap between the form and the free edge, it is important. 

To build the nails, we are going to use acrylic brush No. 10, called Prestige by Alexa. This is a relatively short, firm, natural haired brush. Its flat head is big enough to pick up a bigger bead of acrylics. Its well defined edges come very handy when we want to create the sidelines. The pointy tip is essential when making a perfect smile line. Before creating the almond shape nail, we brush a little bit of liquid on the nail so the acrylics would level more evenly. We pick up a middle sized bead and soak off the extra liquid on a paper towel. We start off from the free edge and proceed towards the cuticle. We are levelling the material from side to side reaching the lateral nail folds on both sides. It is important to smooth the material at the back of the nails otherwise there will be a visible line on the nail, even if we build a transparent nail. So we should take care of thinning the material at the back and about creating a nice C-curve across the nail. 

This means the material should be thinner by the sides and thicker in the middle. Once the material is set on the nail, we can start working on the shape of the free edge. If we build the nail well, we will have to file less, so it is worth to work a little more on building thenail evenly. We place and smooth the next bead of material at the back of the nail. We are levelling the material with tapping moves and blend it into the free edge built previously. The acrylic powder cures under air, so make sure you clean your bursh from time to time, otherwise it driesinto your brush. The nails become prettier if we pinch them when they are about half cured. Moreover, the C-curve gives the nails stability, so if it is created well, it will be more difficult to break them. But how do we know when an acrylic nail is half cured? When acrylic powder cures, it produces heat. So when we start feeling heat, that is the time for pinching. If the nail is already hot, then it is too late for bending. Alexa is pinching with her thumbs at the corner points. If we press the nail and can feel the material moving, then it is too early to pinch. We should press down and inwards and keep the position until the material cures to hard. After pinching we remove the nailform. 

We take off the two wings, push together under the nail and pull it down. Before filing the nails, we should make sure the material is completely hard. If it makes a knocking sound, it should be hard enough. Filing to form should be done with a cone-shape drilling head. First we start at areas closed to the back and side nail folds. Then we go on with filing the inequalities of the surface. Having brushed off the dust, we file the free edge to form with Moyra Profile 150. Once the free edge is done, we should file the surface. It is important that the file should move parallel to the surface it is filing. First we file the areas close to the skin at the back and the sides, then we move to the rest of the surface. Now let's check whether the nail is perfectly symmetrical. You can see one side is a little steeper than the other. 

So we have to correct it and also check the length of the nail. If it is too long, then we just have to file from it. Meanwhile we have to look at the C-curve from side view. In order to have even surface from all sides, we can drill the nail from below, too. Inequalities should be removed with file and dust should be brushed off. We will apply Moyra SuperShine gel on the acrylic nails, so we need to buff the surface just a little bit. We take the rougher side of a two way buffer and buff the nail around the cuticle, but do not touch the free edge. Now we take a Moyra 3D gel brush and apply the SuperShine No. 528 gel in two coats. When applying the first coat, we brush some gel on the edge, too. To even out the layer at the edge, we brush the whole surface again. Then after about 30 seconds of curing, we apply the second layer. This layer can be a little thicker than the first one, and we do not need to brush the edges this time. The second layer should be cured to hard in about 2 minutes. The SuperShine gels need no cleansing, so after buffing the surface a little, we can stamp on it. We clean the plate No. 01 Globetrotter with aceton-free nail polish remover before use. We apply some gold stamping polish on the chosen design, scrape it, pick it up and stamp on the nail. After the design has dried, we close the nail with Moyra brush-on top gel. As the top gel covers and protects the whole nail, we can go ahead and clean the skin around the nail withaceton-free nail polish remover. As a last step we apply a fair amount of oil on the cuticle. And we are ready with our acrylic almond shape nails decorated with SuperShine and nailstamping.

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